Jeeps 1998 Grand Cherokee came equipped with all around disc brakes. Changing brakes can be a nuisance, especially when you dont know how or when. The when is easy; each set of brakes is marked with a number of miles that they are good for. If you are getting close, or if you dont know when your number is up, pay attention for these three signs: a grinding noise when you are stopping or applying the brakes; the brakes grab or stop jerkily; or there is a squealing sound as you drive.
Loosen all of the lugs nuts 1 1/2 turns counter-clockwise. Place the wood blocks in front of the front tires. This will help prevent the vehicle from rolling. Also, put the vehicle in park, but do not apply the parking brake.
2Place the floor jack underneath the rear axle of the Jeep and raise the vehicle. Lift the Jeep until the rear tire leaves the ground by at least 2 inches. Set the jack stand underneath the axle for additional support. Remove the tire by unscrewing the rest of the lug nuts.
3Remove the two bolts that attach the brake caliper mounting bracket to the rotor with the socket wrench. Hang the bracket in the wheel well using the rope to prevent any strain to the brake line.
4Pull the brake pads out of the brake caliper mounting bracket. If they are held in by metal clips, the clips easily pull out and then so too will the brake pads.
5Clamp the C-clamp onto the mounting bracket with one end on the back of the bracket and the other pressed against the brake caliper cylinder. The caliper cylinder is the cylinder in the center of the mounting bracket. Compress the cylinder until it is flush with the base of the bracket.
6Insert the new brake pads back into the mounting bracket. Make sure that the black brake material is facing inwards, towards the rotor. If there were metal clips holding the pads in, place the clips back where they were to secure the pads. These clips are not necessary if they were not originally present.
7Bolt the mounting bracket back on to the rotor with the socket wrench. Set the tire back on to the rotor.
8Repeat the process on the other rear brake set then lower the jeep. Tighten all of the lug nuts with the tire iron and remove the wood blocks. Repeat the process for the front brakes, if needed.
The 5W Cree Q5 LED brightness is comparable with the stock 21W tungsten-filament bulb even under bright sunlight .
Picture : comparison between super bright LED and the new 5W Cree Q5 Projector LED
... wire cutter, long-nose plier, soldering iron, soldering lead, super bright white LEDs, 1157 base, etc
[observe where are the cathodes and the anodes], and for the sidelight solder four LEDs like this...
All together u need six sets for the DRL and one set for side light for each 1157 conversion bulb.
It only takes a split second to damage the drivers side mirror on your 1997 Nissan Altima. Driving a bit too close to the center line or parking on the side of the street are both easy ways to damage the mirror. Most state laws require that all vehicles have at least the drivers side mirror attached and functional to pass state inspection. If your mirror is damaged for any reason, you can replace it with simple automotive hand tools, which makes this a great job for any weekend mechanic.
Open the engine hood and remove the negative battery cable with an adjustable wrench.
2Open the drivers car door on the Altima as far as it will go and locate the plastic cover, inside of the door, on the opposite side of the mirror housing.
3Remove the cover by pulling outward on it. The cover snaps into place with plastic tabs and pops out when you pull on it.
4Unplug the electrical harnesses that connect the mirror motor to the electrical system of the car. Pull up slightly on the securing tab and separate the two harnesses.
5Remove the three nuts that secure the mirror housing to the door frame with a nut driver or socket.
6Pull the mirror off the door. Be careful not to scratch the paint with the mirror housing studs when you pull the mirror out of the door.
7Line the studs up with the mounting holes located on the outside of the door and slide the new mirror into place. Secure the new mirror to the door with the nuts supplied with the new mirror.
8Reconnect the electrical harnesses by sliding them back together and pushing the securing tabs into place.
9Place the plastic cover against the inside of the door, line up the plastic tabs and push inward until it locks into place.
10Reconnect the negative battery cable.
Over the years, the adhesive backing on the rearview mirror on the 2005 Dodge Caravan yellows and starts to peel off. This limits the viewing space of the mirror. Not only is this dangerous, it prevents the vehicle from passing most state vehicle inspections. Fortunately, you can get a replacement mirror at most popular auto-part stores or the dealer and replace it within a few minutes.
Remove the set screw that secures the mirror to the metal mounting tab glued to the windshield. The setscrew requires a T-8 Torx bit for removal.
2Slide the mirror upward to remove it from the metal mounting tab.
3Place the new mirror on the metal mounting tab by sliding downward from the top of the tab.
4Secure the mirror into place with the setscrew.
Youve realized you need to replace your brake pads. Although it sounds frightening, an auto store can help make sure you have the correct brake pads for your car.
Jack up your car using a hydraulic floor jack. Place jack stands under your A-frame. Position the jack stands correctly to prevent injury from the car falling. Put chocks behind the wheels to prevent them from rolling off the jack stands. Take off your tire and wheel assembly using the correct sized lug wrench.
2Remove the caliper from the steering knuckle without disconnecting your brake hose. A torque wrench may be needed to remove the bolts. Support the caliper with a wire coat hanger.
3Push in the outside edge of the outboard pad to remove it. This releases the mounting dowel from the hole in the caliper. Press on the other side to remove the other dowel. Push the pad out of the bottom of the caliper.
4Pull out the inboard pad.
Line up the inboard pad so the spring clip on the back lines up with the hole/space in the caliper piston and locks into it.
6Install the outboard pad over the caliper end. This forces the mounting dowels to snap into the holes in the caliper to hold the outer brake in place.
7Place the caliper over the rotor back onto the steering knuckle. Replace the mounting bolts and sleeves into the holes. Torque the bolts to the specified amount for your car.
8Replace the tire and wheel using your lug wrench.
9Pump the brake six to seven times to seat the pads against the rotor. The brake pedal should feel firm when the pads are seated.
10Check the master cylinder fluid level and add brake fluid if necessary.
Maintaining Your Brake Fluid Level
The first thing you should do is clean the fluid reservoir before doing anything.
A car that runs well is useless if you cant stop when you need to. Caring for your cars braking system includes getting brake pads replaced, inspecting the brake rotors and ensuring you have enough clean brake fluid so the entire braking system functions correctly.
Most cars and trucks have see-through fluid reservoirs that allow you to see and check the brake fluid level without having to open the reservoir cap. You can find the brake fluid reservoir toward the back of the engine bay on the left side (or drivers side). Its usually up high for easy access.
After you locate the fluid reservoir, look for markings along the side of the container. These makings show fluid level and indicate whether or not you need to add any additional fluid. You may need to wipe of some grime in order to see the mark clearly and read them.
Adding Brake Fluid
If you need to add more fluid to the reservoir, follow the steps below.
Before removing the fluid reservoir cap, wipe the area down thoroughly with a rag in case there is any grime. This will make the markings along the reservoir more visible. A cars braking system is sensitive. Any dirt or materials that find their way in can clog or degrade braking system components. So, its always best to give it a thorough wipe down to avoid any future problems.
Remove the cap. Slowly, add break fluid until it rises to the desired level. Replace the reservoir and youre done. After a couple of days, you should recheck the level to see if you need to add more fluid.
One Thing To Remember:
DO NOT SHAKE a bottle of brake fluid before you add it to your vehicle. The bubbles created from the shaking action cause huge problems! And remember to replace your brake pads and rotors when needed as well to have a great all around braking system.
The sunroof is becoming an increasingly popular option on many modern cars. Whether small panels over the drivers seat, or multi-paneled sunroofs that provide fresh air and light to rear seat occupants, the addition can be a part of just about any type of vehicle. However, sunroofs do sometimes leak. Knowing what symptoms to watch for can ensure you get your sunroof repaired before the damage becomes too severe.
One of the most common symptoms of a leaking sunroof is an increase in the amount of wind or road noise entering the car. This can be the first symptom, as it doesnt take much of a gap for wind to enter the car at high speeds and create a whistling or pulsating effect. In some cases, the sunroof or its housing may simply need to be tightened. Other times the sunroof may require a deflector which is a strip of molded plastic that directs wind away from the opening.
Another common symptom of a leaky sunroof is fogging, which can occur on the panel or on other glass, plastic, or metal surfaces inside the car. The fogging is caused by moisture entering the car through the leaks, often overnight as temperatures drop. Fogging can be especially common in humid weather, but should generally not occur inside the vehicle unless there is a leak somewhere.
When a sunroof leak is substantial, water may be able to enter the car. In these cases there will often be no mistaking the source of the leak, as water will pool up directly below the sunroof. The ceiling upholstery may even appear wet or discolored. This can especially happen during a car wash, when high-pressure water is applied to the vehicle roof, or when driving in rain or snow. Leaks large enough to admit water should be sealed or repaired soon after detection, and before other problems occur.
A symptom of a prolonged sunroof leak is often rust. This can occur on the chrome (or chromed plastic) trim around the sunroof, either on the inside or outside of the vehicle. Rust can also spread to the metal roof panels, often requiring extensive repair. If you can see the rust, you can repair it. Try sanding the spots away, re-coating the affected area with a waterproof sealant, and fixing the initial leak.
The most severe symptom of a serious leak is a sunroof that does not operate at all. The relay, wiring, and motors that control its motion are all susceptible to damage from moisture, and may interfere with other electronic systems in the car, such as dashboard instruments. A sunroof that experiences this sort of damage has usually shown one or more of the other symptoms first, which is why prompt repair of any leak is the best choice.
Many people who go to work each day, have a mobile car wash service, or a little mobile detailing company come to their office each week and to wash everyones cars. It is true that during the recession fewer people are getting their cars washed, but the mobile car wash guy still comes around each week, and for a reasonable price will clean your car.
However, have you ever asked yourself if your mobile car washer is environmentally friendly are not?
The reason I ask you this question is so many companies these days are into being a green company, or a sustainable enterprise. In fact, many companies are trying to figure out ways to use alternative energy in their businesses, recycle, and replace their light bulbs in order to save energy. Thats wonderful, but what about your vendors, or even the mobile car washer that comes by each week to your parking lot; is he environmentally friendly also?
The reality is that a good number of these mobile services are not environmentally friendly. They are not using the proper types of soaps, and detergents to clean the cars, and they are allowing their waste wash water affluent to flow into the storm drain. You may not think this is a big deal, and perhaps washing one car isnt. But you must also consider that many of the brake pads have asbestos on them, and when they clean the rims, heavy metals go into the storm drain.
Is your mobile detailer blocking off the storm drain to stop the flow of water while washing your car?
Where is all that dirty water going to; do you even care? If you say you care, but you do nothing about it you are a hypocrite, and if you dont really care, which is probably the reality because you are letting this occur, then all your other environmental sustainability, and green company propaganda is ridiculous. I hope you will please consider this.
A broken passenger window may not reduce the driving visibility in your Lexus LS430 but it can still affect the overall appearance of your vehicle. In addition, it can also put the Lexus at risk of being broken into or damaged further. To avoid this scenario you need to replace the damaged window with a completely new pane of glass. You can pick up a replacement pane from your local auto store.
Open up the door of your Lexus which contains the damaged passenger window. Use a phillips-head screwdriver to remove the mounting screws which fix the door panel to the inside of the door. Remove the door panel from the door.
2Take the screws out of the door handle and the door handle trim. Pull them both away from the Lexus. Use your hands to pull away the water deflector from the door. Just keep pulling it towards you until it comes away from the door.
3Use a hex wrench to remove the bolts which connect the damaged passenger window to the window regulator.
4Put on a pair of safety gloves and begin lifting the damaged pieces of glass from the window frame. Take care not to cut your hands.
5Place the new glass pane in to the door frame. Line up the bolt holes on the regulator with those on the glass and secure in place with the hex wrench. Reattach the door by following the removal steps in reverse.
Typical Stage 1 Tuning Kit*
The window regulator is what keeps the window glass in your Chevy Silverados doors in place. If the regulator is malfunctioning at all, the window may not properly roll up and down and could become damaged. You need to remove the regulator so you can either re-install it in the right position or replace it. Youll have to open up the doors trim panel in order to remove the window and regulator.
If the truck uses power doors and/or windows, disconnect the trucks negative battery cable first. Then pry off the power switch assembly from the door using a flat-bladed trim tool. If it has manual windows, disconnect the window crank--insert a hooked tool behind the crank to disengage its clip, or rub a rag behind it to do the same.
Use the trim tool to pry off all smaller trim panels on and surrounding the door--this can include the panel around the door handle and the one above the door panel behind the mirror. Remove all the mounting screws from the panel; some of them may be behind the smaller panels you removed.
Pull the panel upward and away from the door to disengage it from these clips and disconnect all electrical connectors that are behind the panel. Peel back the watershield to gain access to everything within the door; make sure you dont tear it.
Remove the window glass from the regulator. The glass needs to be lowered enough so the glass track bolts are visible in the door openings. Remove the bolt on the front window glass channel first so the channel can move away from the glass, then remove the two bolts holding the glass to the regulator track. Carefully lift the glass up and out of the door through the opening at the top.
Once the glass is out, remove the four mounting bolts for the window regulator. Push the two guides that make up the regulator together to collapse it together, allowing you to remove the regulator from the door. If the Silverado uses power windows, disconnect the electrical connector.
Brakes are easily one of the most crucial parts of a motor vehicles safety system, so ensuring they are in working order is vital for safety. One part of the brake system that sometimes requires replacement is the brake lines, which deliver brake fluid and assist in applying pressure to the brakes. In order to properly attach brake lines they must have special fittings which are flared at the end to ensure a tight seal. Using special tools and flaring techniques, you can make brake line flare fittings.
Place a pipe cutter on a piece of brake line pipe at the location you wish to create the flare.
2Tighten down the pipe cutter by turning the tightening knob clockwise until it is firmly in place.
3Spin the pipe cutter around the brake line pipe a few times to cut into the pipe. Turn the tightening knob again until it is secure and spin the pipe cutter around the brake line pipes a few more times. Continue this process until the pipe is cut through.
4Cut away insulation at the end of the pipe approximately the length of the flare nut with a utility knife. Sand away any adhesive or paint on the pipe beneath the insulation with 400-grit sandpaper.
5Attach a drill bit slightly smaller than the end of the pipe to be flared to a power drill and pass the bit into the end of the pipe to be flared. Spin the bit in the opening of the pipe to remove any burrs and rough edges created by the pipe cutter.
6File any rough edges on the outside of the end of the pipe to be flared with a metal file.
7Slide a flare nut onto the end of the pipe to be flared.
8Slide the flare tool clamp over the flare nut and pipe and tighten it in place by turning the tightening knob clockwise.
9Attach the flare tool to the flare tool clamp and position it so the tip of the flare tool is aligned with the opening of the pipe to be flared.
10Turn the flare tools handle clockwise until it drives down into the opening of the pipe and flares it open.
11Unscrew the flare tools handle, remove it from the flare tool clamp and unscrew the flare tool clamp tightening knob to release the pipe. Repeat this process at the other end of the pipe to make a double-flared line.
If you own a car or truck then chances are you need good automotive engine parts for servicing your vehicle. There are hundreds of different parts for your car, and your engine can be a very complicated machine to work on. That being said having proper knowledge of what goes where and how it works is very important.
Vehicles of all kinds need maintenance and the first type that comes to mind is an oil change. Typically you want high quality oil for your car but thats not all thats needed. You also need a good oil filter in order to ensure proper oil flow. Having this routine operation done on schedule can keep your vehicle running for a very lone time.
Next operation that comes to mind is a tune up. This requires some of the most basic automotive engine parts and many people can do it themselves. The parts needed for this are spark plugs, spark plug wires, a distributor cap, and an air filter. The operation is simple, and does not take very long to perform.
Aside from the smaller simpler operations many complex repair and maintenance procedures require expensive and heavy duty automotive engine parts. Anything pertaining to the cylinders, valves, water pump, and belt system can be very expensive. If you need work in any of these areas its generally not a good idea to put it off. Of course this is true for most repair procedures but especially in these categories.
Alternators are one of the more pressing automotive engine parts to take care of. They can also be one of the most infuriating as poor quality models will continually go out. These can also run quite a bit of money and you dont want to have one replaced more than once every 3 years. Unfortunately they arent something that you can simply ignore and deal with until they fail.
The alternator is what keeps your battery recharged when the car is running. If it is damaged or not working properly it wont recharge your battery properly and this can result in your car not starting. It can also do some damage to your cars electrical system as well. Having your cars wiring replaced is a very expensive and time consuming operation.
The most important part when talking about an engine is the engine block itself. This is essentially the main part that everything else fits inside of, plugs into, or runs off of. A cracked block can lead to severe performance problems and eventually a destroyed motor. Its best to get these serviced right away as the longer you leave the crack the worse it can get.
Automotive engine parts are some of the most complicated products to shop for. There are many different brands and models for the myriad of different automobiles on the market. For the first time shopper it can be immensely confusing and overwhelming. If you have to shop for parts make sure you go to a reputable store and ask for help. Most auto parts stores will be happy to help you find what you need and recommend the right model for your car.
It is always recommended to replace the brake pads when replacing the brake rotors on a Mazda MPV, however, it is not required. The surface of new brake pads "seated" against the surface of a new rotor, establishes a better relationship between the friction material of the pads and the rotors. However, if the brake pads were recently replaced and youre still experiencing some symptoms from the front brakes, replacing the rotors will most likely solve the problem.
Put on the safety glasses. Use the car lift to lift the Mazda MPV to waist level. Remove the hub caps.
2Remove the lug nuts from both front wheels with an impact gun and a 21mm socket. Remove the wheels.
3Remove the two caliper slide bolts with a 17mm box end wrench if replacing the brake pads in addition to the rotors. If not, remove the two caliper anchor bolts to remove the caliper as an assembly (with pads intact to the anchor) with the impact gun and a 21mm socket.
4Pry the caliper (or caliper assembly) off of the rotor with the screwdriver. Support the caliper to the coil spring using a metal coat hanger (bend it in the shape of a hook) or a metal hook so it does not hang from the brake hose. If youre replacing the pads, you can now remove the two caliper anchor bolts, remove the pads, and set the anchor aside. Compress the piston of the caliper (with pads in or out) using a large set of channel locks to squeeze the piston slowly into the caliper piston bore.
5Inspect the front of the rotor hub face for retaining screws. Certain year MPVs may have a rotor retaining screw holding the rotor in place to the hub. If present, remove the retaining screws with an impact screwdriver (using a large Phillips head bit) and a hammer.
6Remove the rotor.
7Clean the rust prevention residue from the surface of the new rotor by placing it in a parts cleaner or spraying it with a brake clean solvent spray.
8Replace the rotor onto the hub of the MPV and replace the retaining screws (if applicable).
9If replacing the brake pads, clean the pad contact points of the caliper anchor with a wire brush. Clean the brake dust, rust and corrosion from the points and then apply a light coat of brake lubricant to them. This will help the pads to slide along the contact points of the anchor when compressed by the caliper piston. Replace the anchor and tighten the bolts. Insert the pads into the anchor. Place the caliper over the pads and rotor and tighten the slide bolts with a ratchet and socket. Do not use the impact gun on the slide bolts or you can strip the threads on them. If youre not replacing the pads, replace the caliper assembly and the two anchor bolts. Tighten the bolts using the impact gun and a 21mm socket.
10Replace the wheel and lug nuts. Tighten the lug nuts alternately using the impact gun and a 21mm 80 foot pound torque stick. Replace the hub cap.
11Repeat steps 2 to 10 for the other side.
12Lower the MPV and pump the foot brake pedal to seat the pads to the rotors and restore the compressed caliper pistons. Check the master cylinder brake fluid level and adjust if necessary after youve pumped the brakes.
my RCZ
... especially when you have multiple 12v-socket extensions and not use all of them.
Brake bleeding sometimes in necessary when brakes are repaired. The purpose is to remove all air from the system. Air in the system will not allow the brakes to work. Unfortunately, brake bleeding is one of the harder jobs in brake servicing. Unlike most vehicle repairs, brake bleeding usually requires two people if you do not have the specialized tools for the job. Bleeding brakes is almost impossible to do without a helper or a brake vacuum pump, so you really need one or the other.
One major problem is the bleeder nipple breaking off in the caliper or the cylinder. You place a wrench on the nipple and turn. Because it hasnt been opened in years, its frozen shut. You attempt to open it, and it breaks off internally, below the surface of the caliper. To avoid this, use a penetrating oil on the nipple, and tap gently with an aluminum or soft faced mallet. If you apply pressure on your wrench but it doesnt open, apply more oil and keep tapping gently. You may have to repeat this until it loosens up. Popular Mechanics Magazine recommends using the box end of the wrench on the bleeder, so the wrench doesnt round off the hexagon part.
Brake fluid will "eat" and dissolve car paint. Be very careful when filling the reservoir on the master cylinder. Clean up any spills immediately with a dry towel.
Ground clearance is a problem. If you are working on a truck, there is plenty of room for you to crawl underneath. On a car, this is a different story. Some cars make it very difficult to crawl underneath to reach the bleeder nipples. You will have to raise the car. The solution is to rent some car ramps at a local tool rental facility or buy some. You and helpers must push the car up the ramps slowly, since you have no brakes to stop the car if driven onto the ramps. The car and ramps must be on hard, level ground. After the car is up on ramps, place it in park, set the parking brake firmly and use wheel chocks.
The rear window on a convertible top will sometimes be glass. The glass seal is a "soft seal," meaning that it is not fixed to any sheet metal. Over time, the window seal may separate and begin to leak. To fix this, reseal the glass using a urethane sealer made for automotive glass. These sealers can be found in any auto parts store.
Apply a thin bead of urethane sealer to the glass edge.
2Use the applicator to spread the sealer against the glass edge and to seal the glass around the convertibles rear window.
3Use a rag to clean up any excess sealer that has gotten onto the glass.
Scratches in windshields and in other auto glass can reduce visibility and become a distraction while driving, not to mention that they are eyesores on your vehicle. Removing light scratches can be done at home in a few steps.
Apply the polishing compound--which can be found in an automotive supplies store--to the scratches with a soft cloth. Completely cover the area and several inches around the scratches. Gently wipe the compound in a circular motion. Allow it to set for a few minutes.
2Use the buffer to machine polish the compound into the scratches. The buffer needs to be set on medium-high, if the setting is available. Use the buffer until most of the compound is not visible.
3Wipe away the residue with a soft cloth. Most of the scratches should be faded. If light scratches remain, repeat the process two or three times until they are gone. If the scratches are too deep, you may only be able to minimize their appearance.
Brake calipers apply hydraulic pressure to the brake pads. The pads squeeze against the rotor on each side and slow the vehicle. This is much the same way caliper brakes work on a bicycle. When you activate the cable-driven hand brake, the caliper squeezes the pads on either side of the tire rim and slows the bicycle. The difference between the two is hydraulic pressure. There are a few reasons why a brake caliper can stop functioning the way it was intended to. Checking the caliper for performance issues is recommended when your brakes arent working properly.
Lift and support the vehicle using a jack and jack stand(s). Be sure to loosen the lug nuts with a lug wrench before lifting and supporting the vehicle.
2Inspect the brake hose and caliper for visible signs of brake fluid leaks. Brake hoses with visible cracks or deterioration should be replaced immediately. Brake fluid seeping or leaking from the caliper piston may or may not be visible until the caliper is removed. An excessive leak will be obvious and the caliper should be replaced.
3Place the C-clamp over the caliper so the bottom drive of the C-clamp sits against the outboard pad and the top of the clamp sits over the caliper housing. Tighten the clamp in order to compress the caliper piston. If the piston does not retract or gives excessive resistance, the piston is compromised and requires replacement. When checking rear calipers, be aware that some require screwing in the piston which requires a special tool kit in order to achieve. Trying to compress a screw-in piston with a C-clamp or like device can damage the piston or clamp or both. Screw-in piston type calipers are only used on some rear disc brake systems.
4Move the caliper with your hands once the piston is retracted. Free-floating calipers employ slides that need to move back and forth. The slides may be separate or integrated with the caliper bolts. It is not uncommon for the slide or slide bolts to corrode and prevent the caliper from moving properly. To fix the problem the caliper would need to be removed by removing the caliper guide bolts or slide bolts. The bolts would require cleaning and re-lubricating or replaced and lubricated. Internal slides can also be maintained in this fashion.
5Remove the pads and compare the pad wear from both. One pad wearing more than the other may indicate a sticking piston or sticking slide. Common side effects in this case include the vehicle pulling to one side when the brake pedal is applied. If the slide or piston is beyond reconditioning, replace the caliper and then bleed the brake system
6Bleed the brake system any time the hydraulic system is exposed to air. Brake crimps placed on the brake hoses will prevent too much air from entering the system, but bleeding will still be required. To bleed the brake incorporate the assistance of someone to pump the foot brake pedal four to five times and hold it in the down position. Open the bleeder screw on the caliper and allow air to purge from the brake lines. Strategically place a drip pan below the caliper to catch the brake fluid. Close the bleeder screw while the pedal is still in the down position and then repeat until the pedal feels firm. Add more brake fluid to the master cylinder to prevent it from running dry when bleeding brakes. Also, return the cap or cover to the master cylinder before allowing the assistant to pump the brake pedal again.
Time for your vehicles routine checkup? Whether its routine or not, or maybe you just need new parts from a reliable shop, AutoZone can help you with whatever concern you may have regarding your vehicle. If you want a reliable shop that only provides you with parts and accessories from the most credible brands and you want to get these for a reliable price, dont forget that you can always get AutoZone coupons.
A lot of shops today offer different discounts and specials, and AutoZone is no different from those stores. You can get more than half the price cut off if you find the really good ones, and if youd rather have the parts delivered, you can also save on the shipping fee as well. Another great thing about AutoZone is that they offer an online service as well so if youre like many people today who have little time to spare to themselves and dont want to use that time just to drive up their car to a repair shop, you can consult first AutoZone through their site.
You can also browse their products this convenient way. But since youre already for online convenience, the AutoZone coupons can also be downloaded online easily. There are a lot of friends I know who saved a lot on car parts and accessories because they purchased it online. Not only is this way more convenient, but its also more affordable. So if you are worried that youll be spending a lot of money on car repairs, worry no more because now you can be sure that whatever happens, youll get discounts through the AutoZone coupons.
If you want to get mechanics and people who work on their own cars going in a heated debate, start an argument about whether aftermarket car parts are as good as OEM parts. It may seem like a basic argument, but it is actually fairly convoluted.
Okay, what are OEM parts? "OEM" stands for "original equipment manufacturer". In practical terms, this means the party that made the original part for your car be it the muffler, bumper, clutch or whatever. Isnt this part just the car company selling the car be it Ford, BMW or whomever? Nope. Most car companies outsource much of the car part manufacturing to smaller companies.
This outsourcing is why the bankruptcies of General Motors and Chrysler have such far reaching impacts. Not only does it impact everyone at those companies, but everyone at each independent company that makes parts for GM and Chrysler. If these independent companies lose enough business, they may have to shut down. This is problematic since they also make parts for other brands. This is also why the idea that a Ford is "American made" and a Toyota isnt is mostly hogwash. All the brands are getting a lot of their parts from the same suppliers whether they are in the United States, Canada, Mexico or wherever.
Aftermarket car parts come in two variations. The first is simply a generic form of the OEM part, much like generic pharmaceuticals compared to name brands. The second is an accessory for a car such as cold air intake systems for the engine, racks to carry bikes and so on. There isnt much debate that this second form of aftermarket car parts is fine, but the first variation is the area where contention starts.
OEM parts are almost always more expensive than aftermarket car parts. That being said, the price difference often isnt that large in many cases. This is important because OEM parts are generally better for your car than aftermarket parts. The issue is not the manufacturing process of the aftermarket car supplier, but the simply fact that the OEM part is made using the same molds and manufacturing process of the original part on your car. This means it should fit perfectly whereas the aftermarket part might not be an exact fit.
So, which should you go with? It depends. Aftermarket is definitely the choice when it comes to improving the performance on your car. If you are just looking for a part replacement, OEM parts are going to be slightly better although more expensive. Only you can decide if the price difference makes the aftermarket car parts a better deal.
Of all the features on the 1993 Nissan Pathfinder, the brakes are probably the most important. The materials used to make the pads and shoes for the disc and drum brakes are very durable, so changing the brakes frequently is unnecessary. However, even the best materials wear out over time, and eventually youll have to replace your Pathfinders rear drum brake shoes. It isnt a complicated job, but working on drum brakes can be tedious. Allow at least two hours to complete the task.
Loosen the lug nuts on the rear wheels, and raise the rear of the vehicle with an auto jack. Support both sides with a jack stand. Remove the lug nuts and both rear wheels.
2Pull the brake drum from the lugs. Inspect the inside of the drum to ensure there are no grooves cut into the line. If grooves are present, first either replace the drum or take it to a machine shop for repair.
3Place a drip pan under the brake components. Flush the parts with brake cleaner to remove dangerous dust particles. Allow the parts to air dry.
4Place a brake tool over the shoe hold-down anti-rattle spring retainer and rotate it clockwise to unlock the spring. Remove the retainers, springs, spring seats and pins. Repeat for the spring on the other brake shoe.
5Remove the upper and lower brake return springs using needle-nose pliers. These are the long springs that run parallel to the ground.
6Remove the brake shoes from the backing plate. The parking brake cable is still attached to the secondary shoe. Use pliers to remove the clevis pin and disconnect it from the shoe.
7Remove the rubber boot located behind the backing plate, which allows you to remove the adjuster shim, lockplate and adjuster springs.
8Discard the brake shoes and clean all other components with brake cleaner.
9Apply high-temperature grease to the adjuster, adjuster wheel, backing plate springs and any place that moving parts contact the backing plate.
10Rotate the adjuster screw so it is at the shortest possible setting. Reconnect the secondary brake shoe to the parking brake toggle lever and replace the clevis pin.
11Replace the adjuster shim, lockplate and adjuster springs. If you cant remember exactly how they fit, refer to the opposite brake assembly.
12Place the shoes onto the backing plate. Reconnect the upper and lower brake return springs, ensuring the springs are securely seated in the holes.
13Use the brake tool to reassemble the anti-rattle retainers, springs, spring seats and pins. Fit the parts together, place them into position and press the spring down while rotating it 90 degrees to lock it into place.
14Use a flat screwdriver to rotate the wheel on the adjuster until the diameter of the brake shoes is 0.0098-0.0157 less than the inside diameter of the drum. Compare the brake assembly to the one you have not yet disassembled to ensure the components are properly installed. Repeat the procedure on the remaining assembly.
15Replace the wheels and lug nuts, and spin the wheels to ensure they turn freely. If not, use the adjuster to decrease the diameter of the brake shoes. Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts. Operate the parking brake several times to adjust it correctly.
16Locate a safe driving area where you can perform several rapid braking maneuvers. Drive the vehicle in reverse a few feet and then quickly stop it. Drive forward and do the same. Repeat back-and-forth braking several times to seat the shoes and ensure the self-adjuster is working correctly.
Replacing a steering rack is one of the more difficult of the do it yourself car repair jobs. Before you start, read the instructions completely and make sure you have everything that you will need. Also, keep in mind that these instructions are generalized, and will not be specific to your vehicle. Some steps may need to be done slightly different. It is recommended that you read the factory shop manual first. Lastly, you will need someone to help you with the project.
You will need screwdrivers, a ratchet and socket set with extensions, wrenches, a hammer, pliers, a wire brush, power steering filter, power steering fluid, automatic transmission fluid, a tie rod separator, a jack, jack stands, possibly an engine support fixture, and of course the new power steering rack.
First, loosen all the wheel lug nuts and jack up the front of the car. Then, take off both front wheels. Start with the steering wheel turned forward, and turn it slowly until you can get a socket to the steering shaft joint bolt. After you take the bolt off, use the screwdriver to tap the universal joint upwards. This ensures that you can easily move the spline clamp. Dont remove the spline clamp just yet. Unbolt the bolts under the front plastic pan, then remove it. Next, unbolt the tie rod bolt on the hubs on both sides. Take the tie rod separator; push them out on both sides. Loosen first the tie rod locking bolt, then the tie rod ball joint. Remove the rubber boot and loosen the ball joint. Unbolt the hydraulic feed-and-return line, and remove the steering rack mounting bolts. Have your helper turn the steering wheel right, then drop the rack down that side. Then, do the same for the opposite side.
Take the hydraulic line holder bracket, boot, mounting rubber, metal bracket and put them on the new rack. Since the wheel is already to the left, install that side first. Then, position the spline shaft and clamp correctly. Once its done, turn the wheel and do the same for the other side. Reinstall the mounting bolts on the steering rack. Install the feed-and-return hydraulic lines. Center the steering rack and steering wheel. Re-install the ball joint, rubber boot, then tie rods. Install the steering column universal shaft spline clamp bolt, then install the front pan. Put the front wheels back on.
Youre all done. Its not one of the easier do it yourself jobs but if you follow the instructions above and read your vehicle manual, you should be just fine.
The Focus was introduced in the 2000 model year to replace the Escort as the companys economy vehicle. The Focus comes standard with a transverse-mounted four-cylinder engine, five-speed manual transmission, and power brakes. While the Focus uses front disc brakes, the rear brakes are of the drum variety with internally-expanding brake shoes. The drum must be removed before any service can be performed on the rear brakes.
Loosen, but do not remove the lug nuts on the rear wheels with a lug wrench. Raise one side of the rear of the car with a hydraulic or scissor jack using the jacking point on the bottom of the rocker panel just forward of the rear wheel. Place a jack stand under the rear suspension control arm. Lower the jack. Repeat this procedure to support the other side of the car. Do not apply the brake or the brake drum cannot be removed.
2Remove the lug nuts with a lug wrench. Remove the rear wheels from the hubs and place them aside.
3Locate the four bolts on the inside edge of the rear wheel control arm that attach to the wheel hub. Remove the bolts with a 13mm socket and a ratchet wrench in a counterclockwise direction. Place the bolts aside.
4Press the retaining tab on the wiring connector for the rear wheel anti-lock braking system located on the inside of the wheel hub. Pull the connector from the wheel hub. Skip this step if your Focus does not have rear ABS brakes.
5Pull the rear brake drum straight out from the wheel hub and remove it from the vehicle.
GMC has made many trucks over the years, and most of them have four-wheel drive available if it is not already standard to begin with. GMC is smart enough to make their vehicles similar enough that changing the brakes on one of their four-wheel drive pickups is the same process, regardless of year. All brakes need to be changed regularly, about every three to six years. If you notice brake grab, a squealing sound when you drive, or a grinding sound as you stop, it is time to change those brakes.
Loosen each of the lug nuts with the tire iron, two rotations counterclockwise. Place wood blocks in front of the front tires.
2Place the floor jack underneath a stable portion of the undercarriage and raise the vehicle so that the tires are off of the ground. Place jack stands as directed in the owners manual.
3Remove the lugs nuts and the tire completely and set them aside.
4Remove the bottom bolt from the caliper mounting bracket with the socket wrench. Hang the caliper bracket from the undercarriage with a bungee cord to prevent strain on the brake line.
5Remove the brake pads from the bracket. They will easily slip out by hand.
6Compress the caliper cylinder with the C-clamp. If the clamp slips, place an old brake pad between it and the cylinder. If your cylinder is solid and has a groove running across it, you will need to use the compression tool.
7Install the new brake pads by hand. Make sure that the black brake material is facing inwards, towards the rotor.
8Rebolt the mounting bracket onto the rotor. Set the tire back on and tighten each lug nut by hand in a clockwise pattern. Lower the vehicle then tighten each lug with the tire iron.
Servicing drum brakes can be tricky. Removing "stuck" drums can be difficult. Keeping track of all the springs and clips seems intimidating. Have on hand the specialty tools described below to make the job go smoothly. Stabilize the vehicle on jack stands and block the front wheels so the vehicle does not roll. Wear safety glasses and a good pair of mechanics or work gloves.
Remove the rear tires and set aside. Ensure that the emergency brake is released, and the drum turns freely. Remove the rubber plug on the rear of the backing plate, and turn the adjuster screw using the adjuster screw tool until the screw is as short as it can be. This will ensure that the brake shoes are as far way from the drum as possible. Attempt to slide the drum off the hub. If successful skip to Section 2, if not proceed to Step 2.
2Tap gently with the soft-faced hammer or the brass punch all the way around the drum to free any debris and rust from between the brake shoes and the drum. Attempt again to slide the drum off the hub. Repeat this step a couple of times before moving on. If still unable to remove the drum, proceed to Step 3.
3Tap firmly on the drum all the way around where it meets the hub. Salt or chemicals used on the roads in northern areas can cause the drum to corrode to the hub at this point. Try this step several times, striking the drum a little harder each time, attempting to remove the drum between each step. If successful, skip to Section 2. Otherwise, proceed to Step 4.
4Apply heat gently to the drum surrounding the hub using a propane or welding torch if available. Ensure that there are no flammable liquids or aerosol cans nearby. Apply heat for only a few seconds at a time, and do not overheat the hub, as this can result in bearing and hub damage. Be sure to use gloves to remove the drum, as it may become hot. If the drum still does not come free, seek professional help. Serious damage to the backing plate, the hub and the drum can occur by prying. When the drum is removed, proceed to Section 2.
Remove both drums before proceeding. Remove shoes from one side at a time, so that you have a known good side for reference. Using the brake-spring pliers, carefully remove clips, hold down springs, and return springs until the shoes are free. Set the old shoes aside.
6Thoroughly clean all parts with brake-parts cleaner, removing all brake dust and residue. Inspect wheel cylinders, wheel seals, and brake lines for leaking. Replace any leaking or damaged components.
7Reassemble springs using the other side of the vehicle or a parts diagram as a guide. Leave both drums off until springs are reassembled. Replace old springs and clips with new ones whenever possible. If drums appear worn, have a professional shop inspect and "turn" them for you. This prevents brake pulsation and excessive wear. Test all components once brakes are completely reassembled, and adjust the emergency brake if necessary.
8Test drive the vehicle and make sure that the brakes are functioning properly. Inspect brake fluid levels, and test short-stop braking to ensure your safety. Ensure brake lights and all components are working properly.
Toyota pickup trucks are equipped with self-adjusting drum brakes. As you press on the brake pedal, the brake shoes will wear down and create a space between the drum and the shoes. To ensure that your Toyotas brakes are operating optimally, you should manually adjust them, especially if you feel the brake pedal is too low to sufficiently stop the truck.
Disengage the parking brake and put one wheel chock behind each of the trucks front wheels. This will keep the truck from moving as you work on it.
2Position a floor jack under the rear of the truck and lift it up until the wheels are off the ground.
3Slip two jack stands under the control arms located next to each wheel. Lower the jack until the car is resting on the jack stands.
4Remove the lug nuts with the lug wrench. Take off the wheel and set it aside.
5Twist off the brake drums, striking them with a hammer, if necessary, to make them come loose.
6Wear a respirator or face mask and wash the brake shoes with soapy water after removing the drums.
7Locate the star-shaped self-adjuster under the wheel cylinder and turn it clockwise. This will spread open the shoes a bit. Slip the drums back onto the shoes. If the drum goes on very easily, then you know you have adjusted the brakes correctly.
8Reinstall the wheels on the pickup and tighten the lug nuts by hand. Lift the truck with the floor jack and move the jack stands out of the way. Lower the truck to the ground and put on the parking brake.
9Tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench and remove the wheel chocks from behind the tires.
Wayward balls, rocks, gravel can all damage window glass. This is especially true for vehicle windows. Replacing door window glass in a 1994 Chevrolet Blazer is not as hard as it sounds. Window glass does not require the specialty tools windshields require. Everyday household tools and a helper are all you need for this repair.
Lower the window to be replaced on the Blazer all the way down. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
2Pry off the cover on each side of the pull strap with a small flathead screwdriver. Remove the screws with a Phillips screwdriver.
3Remove the screw in the Blazers armrest with a Phillips screwdriver.
4Remove the window crank for manual windows. Pry off the control switch panel with a flathead screwdriver for automatic windows.
5Insert a large flathead screwdriver between the door panel and trim to disengage the retaining clips. Slide the screwdriver around the entire trim until all retaining clips are disengaged.
6Remove the trim panel from the Blazer. Peel the plastic water shield back.
7Remove the retaining screws with a Phillips screwdriver. Pull the door module back. Disconnect the door lock and handle rods. Disconnect the electrical connector.
8Remove the two glass run channel bolts, on the door by the hinges, with a ratchet and socket. Pull the channel away from the glass.
9Tilt the door module and window glass assembly. Lower the module and assembly out of the bottom of the door.
10Bend the tab down on the window run channel. Slide the window glass out.
11Slide the new glass into the window run channel. Raise the door module and assembly into the bottom of the door.
12Push the window channel toward the glass. Install the channel bolts with a ratchet and socket.
13Connect the electrical connector. Connect the door lock and handle rods.
14Push the door module in. Install the retaining screws with a Phillips screwdriver.
15Place the trim panel in position. Press the door panel into place until the clips engage. Install the armrest screw with a Phillips screwdriver. Install the manual crank or control panel.
16Reconnect the negative battery cable.
Under normal conditions--and when adjusted properly--rear brake shoes will last two to three times longer than the front pads. This is because the proportioning valve applies 60 percent of the braking force to the front wheels. Rear brake shoes are made of an asbestos material that is glued and riveted to a metal backing plate.
To promote the rear brake shoes life, the brake drum should be removed every time the front pads are replaced. The brake drum and rear shoes and hardware should be cleaned to prevent abrasive material wearing on the shoes. The rear brake shoes should be adjusted so that they just barely rub the drum when the drum is turned. The emergency brake should be checked and adjusted to make sure that the it releases all the way and does not stick, causing the rear shoes to rub. All the hardware should be checked for broken springs or pieces. Another thing that can cause rapid rear break wear are leaking rear wheel cylinders. Check the rear wheel cylinders for leaks by looking at the cylinder rubber boots. Peel them back a small amount to see if any fluid runs out. If there is any sign of leakage, replace the wheel cylinders.
Another mistake that accelerates wear on the rear brake shoes is when they are installed in the wrong position. Looking at the brake shoes, notice the location of the braking material on the metal backing pad. The front shoe is different than the rear shoe. It is imperative that the low shoe with the most bare metal backing on top is located in the front toward the engine. The high shoe is located in the rear. They will fit either way, although the wear rate will be dramatically different.
When inspecting brake shoes for wear, the rivets that hold the brake material on to the metal backing plate are the indicator. When the braking material becomes worn to the point that it is close to the rivets, it is time to replace them. Inspect the brake lining for deep grooves that could cause less braking surface touching the drum. If this is indicated, the drum will also be grooved and must be machined to eliminate this condition. The brake shoes should also be checked for cracks and missing pieces. Check the brake shoes for contamination from leaky wheel cylinders.
Worn or warped brake drums will cause rapid brake wear and possibly a pulsation in the brake pedal when the brakes are applied. An easy way to check for warpage is to turn the rear axle with the drum on the brakes and see if it hangs up or can be heard rubbing in one location. The thickness of the drums should be checked prior to turning. If the drums are too thin, they should be replaced.
Adjustable proportioning valves are available for performance upgrades in the braking system. These can be adjusted to apply as much or as little braking force on the rear brakes as necessary. If they are adjusted to apply too much braking force, the shoes will wear out faster.
A brake balancer keeps the ratio of braking power equal between the front and rear ends of the vehicle. This system assists larger vehicles that may have weight unevenly distributed.
For a large vehicle, such as a commercial truck, the brake balance pressurizes the brakes on each wheel at the same rate and time. This keeps vehicles from losing control and having rear or front ends turning in the opposite direction from braking quickly.
If the brake balance is uneven on a van, the front or rear difference in braking may cause the vehicle to spin out of control. This is more apparent with 18-wheel trucks. If 18-wheel trucks are not properly balanced, the cargo trailer may twist in the opposite direction from the front brakes.
A working brake balance is also used for race car drivers. The brake balance on many racing cars is kept up-to-date and well maintained so the driver can control braking at fast speeds. If the brake balance is not well maintained, the driver may spin out of control around turns on a racetrack.
On a RC car that has a 2 speed gear box, the larger gear wheel will have a one way bearing in the middle which assists the gearbox and spins in one direction by sitting on the gearbox but will not spin in the opposite direction.
If the air or area is cold and or dirty then you may find that the one way bearing could fail due to the great becoming cold or dirty so looses its liquidity meaning the bearing to slip. If this is the case then attempt to warm up the car and gearbox for 5 to 10 minutes by means of a small heater, hairdryer and you should find the problem goes away.
If the problem reoccurs then the first gear wheel will need to be removed and wd40 or similar applied to the bearing and shaft. Using the wd40 make sure the shaft and the centre of the one way bearing remove all grease. You can then apply fresh grease but making sure it is one way bearing grease. You will find that remove the RC cars gearbox is pretty easy but will take a little while.
To remote the gearbox, find the 4 screws underneath the chassis and remote them and then remote the screws which hold the top chassis on. The servo cable will be attached so you will not be able to remove the upper chassis but it can be moved out the way enough. You can then access the gearbox and put back in ok with enough clearway. To put the drive shafts back into the drive cups can be tedious but find some tools such as pliers to keep them out the way. Once you have cleaned the bearing, if it slips still then you may need to replace it.
Some other reasons why your rc car might not move such as -
If the brake pads are touching or to tight can cause It not to move. Also if the car has been through water and the brakes are wet they could of expanded which stops the breaks from disengaging. You will A grub screw could of come loose which is normally connected to the drive cups, this allows the drive cup to go round so stopping the drift shaft from turning and moving the car.
A part or parts inside the differentials could of snapped or not tight enough. This area means you will need to open up the differentials and give a visual inspection to see if anything looks wrong. Have a look at the cogs, maybe they are slipping or worn out. If they are worn then they should be replaced instead of trying to fix them up and move them together more. For more information on Petrol RC Cars then see or website.
